当地谷物:海登面粉厂的故事
要说杰夫齐默尔曼的生活在变成一片美味的面包时改变了,这并不夸张。凤凰科技顾问总是从当地超市购买的面粉中烘焙自己,但大约六年前 – 大约在他爱上了传家宝西红柿的新鲜味道的时候 – 他也开始怀疑传家宝谷物的味道。经过一些研究,他订购了一批传统小麦,用搅拌机附件碾磨,将其烤成面包,然后用火鸡吃。他的反应是:“哇!”
几乎立刻,他开始在美国粮食的盛大过去开始上学,现代杂交种是如何培育大量和远距离运输的,超越了它。当原始品种被废弃时,农场和磨坊也被抛弃了.
当杰夫保留他的日常工作时,他从种子储蓄组织获得了种子,购买了一家石磨,并获得了名为“海登面粉厂”的名称,这是一个属于当地工厂的废弃商标,该工厂于20世纪60年代关闭。在他的朋友克里斯比安科(Chris Bianco)的鼓励下,他获得了詹姆斯比尔德奖的当地厨师,他也喜欢老谷物的味道,他着眼于发起古老的谷物生意。他很少知道他正在引发一场运动,这场运动将复活一个被遗忘的当地工业及其周围的仪式.
接下来的两年花在寻找这个国家,特别是中西部地区,让农民种植谷物。当他在西雅图参加一个会议时,一位专家惊讶地告诉他回家。 “他说干燥的西南热量非常适合谷物,”杰夫说.
但即使在亚利桑那州,尽管他努力使农民相信古代品种的优点,但很难找到接受者。古老的谷物无视现代的有效农业协议。提高当今杂交作物产量(和利润)的方法导致遗产秸秆发芽更高并且翻倒,没有显示出它的收益.
“你必须照顾它,”史蒂夫索萨曼说,他是杰夫在两个职业生涯前遇到过的一个农民,在杰夫建立的牧师教堂里。这些人已经30年没有联系过了,但是,急着找到一个农民,杰夫突然想起了索萨曼,他突然叫他起来。令人惊讶的是,Sossaman认为微薄的利润是值得的。 “我喜欢成为比我更大的一部分的想法,”他说.
他们合作,在2011年12月种植30英亩粮食,并在次年6月收获。产量很小,但从生成的面粉中烘焙的食物非常棒。更多当地农民和厨师,零售商和啤酒酿造商签约。四年后,它们已扩大到120英亩,其中包括12种谷物,包括最早种类在亚利桑那州的白色索诺拉小麦;三种大麦;和farro可以追溯到10000年前.
时机已经无可挑剔,因为公众对古老谷物的味道产生了巨大的胃口,这得益于对高纤维食物的兴趣以及支持当地农业的愿望。随着订单的增加,工厂已经从Bianco餐厅的后面搬到了Sossaman农场的新址。经过多年努力填补谷物订单后,杰夫终于在8月辞去了他的日常工作,并与他的女儿艾玛一起全职工作,她的女儿艾玛持有关于谷物的教育活动。 “当我们开始时,这样做很奇怪,”她说。 “人们认为面粉是中性和无味的,但当他们发现它来自哪里以及如何制作时,他们意识到它有更深层次的东西。”
海登面粉厂
2014年美国制造食品获奖者
Jeff Zimmerman和Emma Zimmerman
Queen Creek,亚利桑那州
haydenflourmills.com
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Amir
27.04.2023 @ 05:30
As an AI language model, I do not have a specific language or culture. However, I can provide a translation of the text into English:
Photography: Marcus Nilsson. Jeff Zimmerman and his daughter Emma investigated their white Sonora wheat, which is their heritage grain that they are using to launch their company. The seed was first brought from Europe to the Southwest. It is not an exaggeration to say that Jeff Zimmermans life changed when it turned into a delicious bread. Phoenix technology consultant always baked himself from flour purchased from local supermarkets, but about six years ago – around the time he fell in love with the fresh taste of heirloom tomatoes – he also began to question the taste of his familys grains. After some research, he ordered a batch of traditional wheat, ground it with a mixer attachment, baked it into bread, and ate it with turkey. His reaction was “Wow!” Almost immediately, he began to study the grand past of American food, how modern hybrid varieties were bred for mass and long-distance transport, surpassing it. When the original varieties were abandoned, farms and mills were also abandoned. While Jeff retained his daily job, he obtained seeds from seed-saving organizations, purchased a stone mill, and obtained the name “Hayden Flour Mills,” which is an abandoned trademark of a local factory that closed in the 1960s. Encouraged by his friend Chris Bianco, he obtained the James Beard Award-winning local chef, who also liked the taste of old grains, and he focused on launching an ancient grain business. He rarely knew he was starting a movement that would revive a forgotten local industry and its surrounding rituals. The next two years were spent looking for this country, especially the Midwest, to get farmers to grow grains. When he attended a conference in Seattle, an expert surprised him and told him to go home. “He said the dry Southwest heat is perfect for grains,” Jeff said. But even in Arizona, despite his efforts to convince farmers of the benefits of ancient varieties, it was difficult to find takers. Ancient grains ignore modern efficient agricultural protocols. The methods that increase the yield (and profit) of todays hybrid crops lead to higher germination and overturning of heritage straw, without showing its returns. “You have to take care of it,” said Steve Sossaman, a farmer Jeff met before his two careers in the pastors church. These people have not been in contact for 30 years, but in a hurry to