玛莎最喜欢的水果蛋糕及其背后的故事
我想起了Robert Maus先生和夫人很多。他们是我们快乐的德国出生的邻居,他们住在我们位于榆树广场86号的房子隔壁。退休的面包师,他们在新泽西州纽瓦克卖掉了他们有利可图的面包店,他们什么都没有从他们的艺术品中退休。仍然迷恋面粉和糖,黄油和奶油以及新鲜和干燥的水果和坚果,他们一点一点地将他们的混凝土地板改造成他们以前的专业场所的迷你版本。木桌,肥腿和坚固,有未上漆的顶部,柔软,触感光滑,反映了多年和几年揉面团和滚动糕点。烤箱不像我们的隔壁小型燃气壁装置,几乎不能容纳二十五磅重的火鸡,但大的“专业”系列,黑色随着年龄增长。地板感觉像工作台的顶部一样柔软,这肯定是面粉和糖年复一年地磨砂的结果.
虽然从我的角度来看 – 一个年幼的孩子 – 一切看起来都比生命更重要,但我母亲向我保证,一切都比我以前更大,从Mauses本身开始。他们不像其他任何熟人。我一直认为他们是童话般的人物,正如孩子们的作者莫里斯·森达克(Maurice Sendak)在其着名的着作“夜间厨房”中所设想的那样。
虽然已经退休了,但是Mauses就好像他们的顾客在前门排队一样。他们总是尝试和尝试新的食谱和想法,使用他们在德国获得的古老技术,他们在一个“天然”大师面前学徒,他只使用最好的成分,并取得了惊人的成果。因此,从那些大烤箱出来的丹麦糕点,在多年使用的边缘凹陷和变黑,是脆弱和片状,充满甜杏,李子和苹果,而不是罐头,但新鲜和丰满.
地下室面包店没有混合器:一切都被搅拌,揉捏并用手混合。 Maus先生会一遍又一遍地告诉我,这就是为什么他的蛋糕更轻,面包更高,奶油更柔软,糕点更脆。直到今天,我相信他,并在我烘烤或做饭时使用他的指示。他的发酵面团会在加热他家的大油炉的包围温暖中升起。他使用了Maus太太深切关心的大黄色碗 – 这些碗里没有裂缝或碎片。用薄薄的,精心洗涤的亚麻毛巾覆盖面团,并在地窖里放置水盘以产生“湿度”,Maus先生知道这对于精细酵母面包的嫩度是必不可少的。他的擀面杖是巨大的 – 比我见过的更长,更大,当我作为一个年轻的家庭主妇,正在购买我自己的烘焙工具时,我寻找相同种类的钢盘和厚重的锡模具和巨大的木制滚动Mauses使用的针脚。我仍然拥有并珍惜他们的一个黄色碗,我用它来上升我母亲的babka面团.
也许是最令人难忘的Mauses食谱,以及我们家中仍然使用的食谱,就是这种水果蛋糕配方。它丰富,沉重,黑暗。你必须使用最优质的干果和蜜饯水果;我花了一天时间为我的水果蛋糕烘焙日收集食材。然后一切都必须用手切碎,平底锅和罐子必须用黄油棕纸或重蜡纸衬里,蛋糕必须在贝恩玛丽烘烤约三个半小时.
这是我和Maus先生和夫人的食谱,万无一失,给你的圣诞礼物。记住,马上烘烤这个蛋糕 – 它随着年龄的增长而变好.
获取Mauses的水果蛋糕食谱
Terrance
27.04.2023 @ 04:33
As an AI language model, I do not have a specific language to comment in. However, I can provide a translation of the text into English:
Photography: Christopher Beck. I remember Mr. and Mrs. Robert Maus very well. They were our happy German-born neighbors who lived next door to our house at 86 Elm Tree Square. Retired bakers, they sold their profitable bakery in Newark, New Jersey and retired with nothing but their art. Still obsessed with flour and sugar, butter and cream, fresh and dried fruits and nuts, they slowly transformed their concrete floor into a mini version of their former professional place. Wooden tables, fat legs and sturdy, with unpainted tops, soft, smooth to the touch, reflected years and years of kneading dough and rolling pastry. The oven was not like our next-door small gas wall unit, which could hardly accommodate a twenty-five-pound turkey, but a large “professional” series, black with age. The floor felt as soft as the top of a workbench, surely the result of years of grinding flour and sugar.
Although from my perspective – a young child – everything looked more important than life itself, my mother assured me that everything was bigger than before, starting with the Mauses themselves. They were not like any other acquaintances. I always thought of them as fairy-tale characters, just as childrens author Maurice Sendak imagined in his famous work “In the Night Kitchen.”
Although retired, the Mauses were like their customers lining up at the front door. They were always trying and experimenting with new recipes and ideas, using ancient techniques they learned in Germany, apprenticing with a “natural” master who used only the best ingredients and achieved amazing results. Thus, the Danish pastries that came out of those large ovens, dented and blackened on the edges after years of use, were fragile and flaky, filled with sweet apricots, plums, and apples, not canned, but fresh and plump.
The basement bakery had no mixers: everything was stirred, kneaded, and mixed by hand. Mr. Maus would tell me over and over again that this was why his cakes were lighter, his bread higher, his cream softer, and his pastries crisper. To this day, I believe him and use his instructions when I bake or cook. His fermenting dough would rise in the warm embrace of the large oil furnace heating his home. He used the large yellow